BHP 015: Big Wave Surfer Cheyne Magnusson
Have you ever wondered what it feels like to ride a fiberglass board on a 50 foot wall of water that travels faster than a motorcycle and breaks over coral reef in 6 feet of shark-infested water?
The barrel is so wide you can drive an RV through it and not touch the walls of the wave. It’s the best feeling!
From 7-mile long waves in China to tow-in sessions at Tahiti’s famed Teahupoo (pronounced “Cho-poo”), Cheyne Magnusson is no stranger to big waves. In this week’s episode of the Better Human Project we unpack what it takes to succeed at the highest level and how to balance the fearlessness and humility required to ride – and survive – some of natures most awe-inspiring waves.
Cheyne also shares the wisdom from his mentors that has enabled him to avoid the pitfalls of stardom, to enjoy a long career, and how the next chapter of his life is focused on helping the future generation of surfers – including mentorship, wave parks and his special mission with Surfing For Autism.
Skateboarding before walking… Cheyne’s father, a pro skater in the 80s, tied a leash to a skateboard with a car seat fastened to it to haul young Cheyne around. (4:37)
The therapeutic and calming impact surfing had on Cheyne as he grew up. (5:45)
Scared shitless, but doing it anyway. The excitement and anticipation of preparing to hit a big wave. (8:23)
“It looked like the whole ocean was going to fold over.” Cheyne takes us inside the world’s biggest and deadliest waves. (10:32)
Riding a seven mile wave known as “The Silver Dragon,” through skyscrapers in China (16:25)
“It makes you become an adult pretty quick.” How the birth of his daughter changed Cheyne and how he now calculates the waves he does ride on. (18:54)
How Cheyne avoided the pitfalls of celebrity and the biggest lessons he learned from his mentors. (22:15)
The number one lesson Cheyne shares with the young surfers he mentors – and his lesson for his daughter. (26:06)
Why Cheyne created a skate park for the kids in his hometown. (33:20)
How waves, surfing, and human connection have a profound impact on children with Autism and their parents. (36:45)
Take risks and be good to others. How he has taken the advice into his own life. (40:28)
Bringing surf to middle America with wave parks. How Cheyne and a few others are revolutionizing the future of surfing. (42:45)
Cheyne’s Tips to #BeBetter and #DoBetter: Be empathic and always know there are two sides to every story, come up with solutions, and seek to further a cause – not just yourself. (45:58)
Cheyne Magnusson (@redtide83) • Instagram
(@CheyneMags) | Twitter
Related Links/Products Mentioned
Surfing The Silver Dragon, China’s 7-Mile Tidal Wave: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAGABdvv5u8[/embedyt]
Kelly Slater (@kellyslater) • Instagram
Laird Hamilton (@lairdhamiltonsurf) • Instagram
Matt Kazuma Kinoshita (@kazumasurfboards) • Instagram